In July 2007, a television show debuted that would change the face of menswear forever. I don’t think one can overstate how important “Mad Men” was to the world of men’s style. For the first time in a generation, men saw how good they could look in a suit, and, more importantly, they bought in. Every guy wanted to be Don Draper, and suddenly suits were everywhere. Finally, the lazy worlds of unbuttoned striped shirts with bootcut jeans and the business casual uniform of khakis and a polo shirt were on the decline.
Over the next decade menswear would have a once-in-a-lifetime renaissance. But, alas, the pendulum swung too far with overly tight suit jackets and Pitti Peacocks dressing for the camera instead of personal style. Fit was sacrificed for fashion. I succumbed to some of these trends too. I started this blog six years ago to chronicle my style journey, even though I didn’t realize that’s what I was doing at the time. With every post and every article, I get a little closer to exactly what I want to be. Now the question begs, where does menswear go from here?
I fear the pendulum will once again swing too far in the other direction. As we bounce back from skinny fit jackets and the “Thom Browne-ing” of the suit, my hope is that men can find a soft landing in the world of suits comfortable to wear all day and some casual style that doesn’t cause people to wonder which big box store is your employer.
Unfortunately, we’re already starting to see a turn to the faux-stylish, ultra-casual realm of athleisure and full-set, nylon track suits. Between that, shirts that are meant to be worn untucked, and “performance fabric”, it’s almost as if we’ve unlearned the lessons of the past thirteen years. Let this serve as a quick reminder that natural fibers (wool, linen, cotton, etc.) will always look better and wear better that synthetic ones.
So where should one look to stave off this invasion of the uber-casual? First, it is important to remember that if you want stores you like to stay open, you have to support them. Put your money into brands that offer quality products for a fair price. Hopefully enough other people will do the same, and these companies will be able to continue selling clothes that you want to see in the world.
I think in the coming years, it may become a bit more difficult to find these brands. In a post-COVID/WFH world the general public will probably want to be more casual (what they perceive as more comfortable) while working. Fortunately, while we’re in a buyer’s market, I would invest in some long-term pieces. One of the great things about menswear is that it doesn’t change too much. If you buy a suit today with the right fit and right proportions, you can wear it for the next couple of decades.
So, where am I shopping these days? Well, my entire tailoring closet consists of almost exclusively Spier & Mackay and Suitsupply (I size up one) at this point. Drake’s is another stellar example of “casual tailoring”. For accessories, I’ve really been into Attorie and Shibumi Firenze lately, and Brooks Brothers neckwear is always excellent. My favorite shirtmaker is easily Harvie & Hudson. Their sizing fits me perfectly, and I can take their shirt measurements and have Spier & Mackay make anything else I’m looking for. Finally there are so many options for footwear, it’s hard to know even where to begin. But my favorites right now are Joseph Cheaney & Sons, TLB Mallorca, Meermin, and Beckett Simonon. I think they all are producing excellent shoes worth each of their respective prices.
I think we are currently on a trajectory to bring menswear trends back into a more casual setting. How far down that rabbit hole we go, I’m not sure. Hopefully, we don’t revert all the way back to the days of Hawaiian shirt Fridays and clothes that are unintentionally two sizes too big. What I do know is that if you buy classically styled clothes that fit your body and balance your proportions, you will always be in style and never off trend.
Oh, and it couldn’t hurt to pick up a copy of “Dressing the Man” to help guide you even more.
