The other day my wife shared her “word of the day” that she receives in an email, and the word was “Sprezzatura.” I began to wonder, “Has the trend finally ‘jumped the shark?’’ Is it so passé that suburban housewives are now learning about it? Recently, I was listening to Handcut Radio with Aleks Cetovic. Well, catching up is more like it, and Aleks and his guest were discussing Italian style and whether that would be the look of the future. I mean, just look at the Pitti Peacocks and how that’s blown up. Personally, I wouldn’t call that Sprezzatura, I’d call it costuming, but it’s an attempt at Sprezz. So is Sprezzatura dead?
One major change coming in a post-COVID world, I think, is that people will dress more for themselves and less for others. This means if one would prefer to dress up and wear tailored clothes, they will do it because they want to; not because they think they have to. And if someone wants to wear drawstring pants and a sweatshirt, they will. People will find what works for them and run with it. This is a good thing, encouraging individualism and personal style.
I was once accused of trying to get everyone to dress the same. That’s absolutely not true. I think if someone likes my style, they should take inspiration from me. If someone doesn’t like how I dress, look for inspiration somewhere else. Just find what works for you.
I think going forward, people who choose to wear tailored garments, will look for less flash and more substance. What is known as Sprezzatura has become too contrived. All the accessories, all the overthought, all the preening, it’s just too silly. True Sprezzatura is about looking like you didn’t overthink. It’s less in order to gain more. It’s casual, not comical.
People want elegance and simplicity. I’ve been seeing a return to the timeless beauty of drape, cuffs, and pleats. I think for a long time (think post 90s) people were scared off by these terms, and for good reason. They were pushed too far. But they are all good things…when done right. Drape should highlight the fabric, not overload it. Cuffs can add character and weight without looking too bulky. Pleats can give some extra room in the seat without looking baggy (this is why I prefer reverse pleats which open inward). My only fear is that eventually this will all be pushed too far again, and we’ll return to the narrow, stream-lined look.
So how do I plan on navigating these trends going forward? I’m shopping for timeless pieces. I just picked up a new blue blazer that should not go out of style any time soon. I shop for my body, not the trend. Tailoring is all about proportion, and as long as I keep my body in check, my clothes will always work for me. I’m educating myself on the classics. Books like “Dressing the Man” and “Ten Garments Every Man Should Own” are great places to get started and build a foundation. Finally, while I follow the “menswear rules”, I like to add in a little flair. Maybe it’s a vintage pocket square or a bold overcoat, but I try to add something with a little character that’s unique to me.
So is Sprezzatura dead? Absolutely not. Stylish men will continue to dress with casual elegance for decades to come. But that cartoonish peacocking with sixteen different accessories, every detail planned and coordinated, and so much narcissism that it reeks of insecurity? Yeah, that’s dead and gone. Good riddance, and let’s never speak of it again.
